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J/22 Quicktune

TWS (knots)

Head
stay(cm)

Uppers (units)
A

D1 (units)
A

Head
Stay
Units

A

Upper
Turns
from
base

D1
Turns
from base

Uppers
units
PRO

D1
unit
PRO
Head
stay
unit
PRO

5
6

1.52
1.52

23
30

20
24

4
6

-2
-2

-1
-1

15
20

11
15

3
5

8
10

1.52
1.52

30
35

24
27

6
9

-1
-1

-.5
-.5

20
25

15
19

5
8

12

1.52

35

27

9

0

0

25

19

8

14
16
18

1.52
1.52
1.52

39
39
41

32
32
35

15
15
19

1
1
2

.5
.5
1

28
28
31

21
21
25

10
10
13

20
22
24
27

1.52
1.52
1.52
1.52

41
44
44
44

35
42
42
42

19
23
23
23

2
3
3
3

1
1.5
2
2

31
33
33
33

25
30
30
30

13
17
17
17



Red Settings Above = Base Settings

Light Air Set Up Guide (0-6): Mainsail Trim: The boats need all the power that you can find.  Pull the traveler up to about 2” from the windward seats.  Ease the mainsheet until the boom is on the centerline.  Ease your outhaul so that shelf opens up about half way.  Sighting up from the boom the top batten will be twisted off to leeward or opened about 5°.  Make sure the boom vang is loose and backstay is at the top of the “Y”.  The top batten telltale will flying about 60% of the time with the lower telltales flowing all the time.  

Jib Trim: In light air keep the jib sheet eased almost to the toe rail, and again, keep an eye on the top leach telltale.  Also watch for slight scallops between the jib hanks.  The lack of luff tension should help keep the draft aft and help pointing.  With the backstay off, the headstay sag should give you a wide grove to steer to.As the wind strength increases, add to the halyard tension so you see only slight wrinkles.  Keep in mind, the increased halyard tension will also tighten the leach, so you may need to ease the sheet as you change the halyard.
Light-Medium Set Up Guide (6-10): By now we should have the traveler about 2” high or on the centerline.  Apply enough mainsheet to keep the top batten parallel to the boom and the top telltale will be flying only about 15% of the time.  Also by this time we may be pulling on some backstay. This will open up the leach and add some twist.  We will have to constantly change the sheet tension as we change the backstay tension.  At this wind speed we will start to vang sheet the mainsail.  What this means is that we are going to use the boom vang to take the place of the traveler.  Once the mainsail is trimmed apply enough vang tension to equal the mainsheet.  As the wind increases the vang tension will increase so that when the mainsheet is eased the boom doesn’t raise up and get too much twist.  Too much twist in this condition will hurt your pointing.                    

Jib Trim: . Sheet tension is now critical to pointing. Too little, and the top opens up and your pointing hurts, too much and the helm starts to feel neutral. To find your maximum trim setting, slowly trim the jib as you are sailing upwind. As the jib trim increases, the helmsman will feel the helm go dead or neutral.  Toward the top end of this wind range you will start to move the jib lead back about ½” to ¾”.  This will open up the leach, and start the depowering process.
Medium-Heavy Air Set Up Guide (10-20 True): Mainsail Trim   We are now starting to play the backstay and full on vang sheeting.  The vang has now become the traveler.   Be careful not to overtrim the main.  With about ½ backstay on and the main trimmed in the boom will now be about 8” below centerline.  Play the backstay aggressively in the puffs to prevent the boat from heeling and getting excessive weather helm.  Remember that as you pull the backstay on the mainsail, the leach opens up so you will have to adjust mainsheet tension to keep the same top batten angle.    

Jib Trim:  We are now starting to depower the jib. Move the jib leads aft another ½”, and increase halyard tension so the luff is smooth. As we start to move in to the middle to upper ranges of this section, we will have the backstay on about ¼ to about ½.  This will tighten the headstay, and make the jib flatter. The jib trimmer and the helmsman must work together and trim and ease in unison. When the puff hits, the helmsman will slowly ease the mainsheet to keep the boat flat.  This may cause the mainsail to backwind, or the entire sail to luff. When this happens, the jib trimmer should ease the jib out between 1” to 3”, or until the mainsail starts working again.  Easing the jib sheet will twist off the leach, and open up the slot between the Main and Jib. As the puff ends, we can power up the sails again by trimming it back in.


Misc. Notes:

MARKING THE HEADSTAY:
With the mast still down and the headstay attached at the top, lay the headstay down the front of the mast and put a mark on the headstay at the top of the black band at the boom.  We will use this mark as an easy way to measure and check the headstay length.  Please be accurate.

Now Stand the Mast in the boat. Nothing will make a more drastic difference in you performance then not having the mast in the center of the boat. Check this by measuring back along the side of the boat from the tack horn to the approximate area of the Crane Head (top of the mast) and making a mark on toe rail Then duplicate the recorded measurement on the other side of the boat and make a mark.  Then with a measuring tape hoisted up to the top center the mast using the marks on the toe rail.

Now that we have the mast up and in the center, its time to adjust your headstay. Measurements from the mark on your headstay, to the intersection of the headstay tang at the deck, should be between 4’11 ½’’ and 5’1’’.

Its important to remember that due to the difference in keel shapes and placements the optimum headstay length may vary from boat to boat.

This length should be fine-tuned by experimenting.  When sailing in 5Kts of wind you should be able to keep the boat almost flat without getting any lee helm.  Should you still have lee helm, or no weather helm, increase the rake or headstay length in ½’’ increments until the boat has some weather helm.